Aw Yeah. It's to get printy!

Got myself a 3D printer :D

I've just started the first test print. Finger crossed...

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Lots of upgrade happening at once currently so I'll post an update when it's all done. It makes sense to do it this way to avoid having to recalibrate the printer more than once.


I'll patiently await the next set of photo updates.

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Next is a little camera with lights so I can watch the prints remotely and capture time-lapse videos. It's not exactly essential but it'll be a bit of fun:)

I'm also working on a new front to the printer to house the existing LCD panel at an angle so it's easier to see and also will make space to contain the Pi Zero W internally.

The other main upgrade to make is an upgraded, thicker, Y-carriage plate, the plate that supports the printer bed. The Y-carriage plate on this model is too thin and can bend easily which means you have to check the bed is level all the time. I could just buy a ready made 3mm aluminium one but that would cost £22 and I'm too cheap for that! ;D I've got some 4mm aluminium for £5.50 and I'll machine it to fit :)

The picture shows the original pressed steel plate that is only 1mm thick and a 3mm aluminium plate.


Nice indeed! What's next? ;)

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Here is the whole set up of the rear z-brace fully fitted.
Lots of people with these printers do z-braces to the front because making brackets it easier in that direction but the threaded rod gets in the way so I took the time to make better brackets that go to the back and I'm very pleased with the results.

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Here we have the middle, left, and front, right, feet, unsurprisingly one on each side. These are much simpler than the rear feet as they don't have and other stuff to do.

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This is the rear foot and z-brace bracket, one on each side. You can see the cover that gets pushed down over the nut once it's tightened up.

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Ok, here is the part shown here, >>33808, fitted, one on each side. It's the upper Z-brace support to give rigidity to the upper gantry frame. Threaded rod then goes down to a bracket and foot at the back on each side. The threaded rod is covered in shrink wrap tubing to make it look nicer and the nuts are covered with printed covers.


I'll post a few shots soon once that particular mod is complete, but essentially it's part of a brace to give the gantry of the printer more rigidity and to give the printer some nice feet.


Where you going to place that bracket?


>>33806>>33807>>33808 neato!

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Here's another angle of that same piece.

I'm working on the bracing upgrade now so the printer will have better rigidity which should improve print quality a bit more.

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You can see the improvement here when printing an overhang, before there was a lot of sagging but now it's all good :)

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The new fan arrived from China yesterday for my extruder cooler upgrade. It works with the round cooler I printed a couple of weeks ago, >>33775.
Print results are much better :)


>>33777 Not enough room to stand my beers in my fridge.
I still have lots of printer mods to make, then I'll move on other things :D

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>>33775 hahaha, you're now looking around the house for things to 'improve'?

ps: you do know bottles can stand too?

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>>33774 Sweet!

I've printed my extruder cooler (right) in ABS and I'm pretty pleased with it, still waiting on the fan from China.

Left and centre are my beer racks for my fridge. Left is version 1 and right is version 2. The cool thing is these can be fixed together with the little '8' shaped items to make a beer rack as long as required. I can happily report that my beer racks are now in my fridge and working perfectly. No more beer bottles rolling around!

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>>33773 oh nice website, ty.

But I've already found a different (easier) way. Plus quiet 140mm fans that still push enough air is finding a 1mm needle in a 1.1mm needle factory. ;)

Still. Thank you for your advice & link. I'll mos def look at the website. Hopefully in the near future I'll come up with something easy & solid that will mos def work. :)



>>33769 You can drill or shape the prints like you would any other bit of plastic.
Those fan parts should be possible. They probably want to be made of ABS so they don't have a problem with the heat of the radiator. You'd need to make it as 2 140x140 adapters rather than a single piece because the total size is too big for most 3d printers.

Get designing on !!
There is a great little tutorial to help you get started.


Album with pics.

Let me know for further questions.

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rough idea

>>33769>>33770 Warning, awesome paint skillz, yo!

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These 120 to 140mm fan brackets work well on a 280 radiator but vice versa not so much.

It could be their round design, so maybe if it was more like a square U-shape?


Curious, how strong is your printed stuff? And/or how easy is it to drill a hole in? Or will it crack too easily?

You see, I have this idea for a double U-shaped 120 to 140mm bracket. Because I have a 240 (2x 120mm) radiator but only a 280 (2x 140) radiator bracket and... that shit ain't gonna fly, Morty!
Also the reason for the double U-brackets is that one will be 140x140x..height unknown as of yet.. I still need to do more research on that.

mm..I will get back to you.

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>>33767 You know it!

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Locked stuff = bullshit, right ^ ?

>>33766 yeah, same as the HP laptop. And here I thought that bullshit wasn't allowed.

That's why I love free stuff #GoT #R&M ;)


>>33765 VM was my first stop but I couldn't get my SD card readers to work with it :/
Just one of those situations where lots of little things conspire to be a big pain in the arse :D

The LCD and it's firmware are made by DWIN and probably not intended to be updated outside of the factory, but it still would have been nice to know about the need for linux from the printer manufacturer.

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>>33764 pff.. looks like the manufacturer doesn't know/care about other OS.

Why didn't you just go the Virtual Machine route?


I managed to get the LCD working correctly again today! It turns out that there is a problem with preparing the files for the update using a windows computer so you have to use linux to do it. I powered up ubuntu on usb but it had problems and wouldn't work correctly so I then spent much of the day getting ubuntu dual booting on an old laptop. What a pain in the arse! Eventually I managed to get it working and was able to get the LCD of the printer working again.
Pretty annoyed that I only found out about this by searching through forums about the printer and not from the manufacturer.

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Here is a test print of an extruder cooler for the printer. This design allows for cooling the printed filament more evenly than the standard cooled which only blows air from one side. Better cooling allows for printing longer unsupported sections without it sagging.
This print is with PLA which is easy to use for test prints but won't be able to handle the high temperatures around the extruder nozzle. I've got some ABS filament for doing the final print which will have no problem with the temperature. I'll hopefully get in to that over the weekend, but It'll be a week or two before the new fan for this cooler arrives.

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Here is the inside of the case. You can see how simple it was to add the button and light mod. For the button to work I added a little script that runs at start up to react to the button being pressed and shutdown the Pi. Very simply but so much more useful.
And yes the button on the case is a custom printed item made with the printer which makes the cost of it all worth every penny! :D

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>>33760 I'd forgotten about your line of work, makes perfect sense you'd be using one of these :D

So here is the Raspberry Pi Zero W running OctoPrint to work as a network printer server. I don't have the camera yet, but soon I'll be able to watch my prints as they happen, which should help me fall asleep! ;D
I've modded the pi to allow the power light to show through the case so I can see when it's shutdown and safe to switch off. I also added a button in the center of the case to allow me to shutdown the Pi without having to log in through the network.


Very cool JC! I often use this same FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) process to build functional prototypes. Our capacity is 400mm x 400mm x 355mm, and is booked around the clock with people trying to run print jobs. The dual extrude option is nice as you can use a support material to create more complex geometry. Very excited to see the uses you come up with for this.


HP, and others like Lenovo, are total fuckers for locking down components in their computers. It's only a tiny change to the firmware on the components but pretty much impossible to fix :(


:( How is the display connected to the internal mobo? Maybe you can upgrade with something better.

Different yet similar?
My mums HP laptop has a terrible wifi module. I decided to upgrade it. Flicked some setting in the bios to allow different components. Yay, the BlueTooth 4.2 part works..but the wifi adapter isn't recognized. Not even after firmware/driver update. Seriously?!

So on to the tiny 128GB M.2 ssd, out with that and in with a new 256GB M.2 ..but alas.. it isn't recognized. WTF??
So I checked several M.2 SSD's with an adapter. All, except the HP M.2 SSD, are recognized on my main computer.
Now that's what I call protection.


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So I went to update the firmware on my printer today. It's a slight pain in the arse as you have to update the main board and lcd panel separately. I started with the main board as instructed and all went well. Then following the instructions exactly I updated the LCD which didn't work out so well :/ The screen is now not working correctly. When it starts up the screen is all glitchy and shows bits of the wrong graphics, and the touch screen is totally dead :( I've spent a few hours trying different things but nothing works. I spoke to the manufacturer who says I can send the screen back for replacement with one already updated which is a pain in the arse but at least I can still use the printer and control it via USB (or my Pi Zero W). I just hope he doesn't expect me to send it to China, if that's the case I'll just return the whole thing to amazon for a replacement.
Wouldn't it be nice to just own something that just worked reliably every time! :D


>>33752 I think it'll be limited to the local network as my vpn does a great job of blocking external access. But I'll be able to send updates to my phone, or maybe stream it live on youtube or something :D

I've seen up to 4 extruders on a single printer, although often people just add a second one. I've also seen a single extruder which has three filaments going in to it so it mixes the colours. I'll probably take a look at a second extruder at some point, but you can always just print parts in different colours and then fit them together.

Sometime the nozzle can clog but you just heat it up and then clean out the filament with a suitable sized drill bit, but done by hand and not with a drill. It it's really bad you can remove the nozzle and clean or replace it. As far as I can tell normally people just remove the filament after each use so the nozzle will probably still have a tiny bit in it but it'll clear when it next heats up. The main reason to remove the filament after each use is so that it doesn't absorb moisture from the air and then produce bad prints.

If you find something interesting let me know :D

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>>33751 haha! Isn't Trump a butt plug in real life?

Remote, I can print stuff too or just so I can watch too? :D

Btw, would it be possible to mod it so you can add another line of filament? So you can add other colors or type.
Also, I've read that some types of filament are a bitch to clean (they clod-up inside the tube or the print head gets stuck) So must you clean it after every run?

And last question for the take requests?

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Just ordered a raspberry pi zero w and a little camera for it so I can setup a wireless print server for the printer using octoprint ( It will allow full control and monitoring of the printer remotely :)
I probably don't really need this add on but it's too cool not to have :P
I've found an firmware update for it too which will be fun to install as you have to update the main motherboard and LCD display separately. The motherboard is easy enough through a usb cable but the display requires taking the front off the printer to access a hidden sd card slot on the back of the display. It's interesting, to me at least, that this printer is basically running on an Arduino Mega 2560, the good thing about that is it's really easy to create custom firmware. An arduino mega isn't powerful enough to run a print server though which is why a Pi is used.

I'll probably be printing some test pieces next and perfecting the art of 3d printing so that soon I can print my very own Jesus buttplug ;D
Then perhaps a Trump buttplug XD

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Next: the other hand

>>33748 Sweet. Thanks for the info.
80db is pretty loud, though, I guess you won't print large jobs and take a nap.

Will you now print the other hand?


I forgot to mention software.
To print a 3D model you have to use a 'Slicer' to turn a 3D model in to GCode, which is what the printer uses to print each layer. I'm using Cura for this as it came with the printer, it's free thankfully.
To make 3D models lots of people use TinkerCAD, it runs in the browser at, to make them. It's amazingly simple to learn and use, it even has some great tutorials to get started.
It's also possible to use software like Blender, but it's pretty complex and beyond my needs at this stage.
If you want to search for ready made models, and there are thousands to choose from, them take a look at

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Here is the finished item :)

It's 66mm tall and weights 10 grams (it's hollow), which means it used about 3 metres of filament and cost about £0.17.

I'm sure with practice I can get the printing a little better.

Forgot to mention below that this is printed with PLA, which is a plastic made from maize! It can also print ABS, PETG & PETT and even Nylon with a few mods. It's a very versatile little printer.
The biggest it can print is 200mm x 200mm x 180mm.


It's finished printing, but we have to wait for it to cool down now.

This is the one I bought, which should answer most of your questions.

It was £360 ready built (you do have to fit 2 big parts together but it's not hard). The most complex bit is levelling the print bed but if you take your time then it's not difficult, it pays to get it perfect and not rush.
This kind of printer is really intended for people how are happy to tinker and improve them over time, which will lead to better results.
I tested the noise and the loudest it got was 80db, so not loud at all really. So with my Hifi putting out 106db I can say I didn't notice any noise from the printer ;D
This test took about 75 minutes. 3D printing isn't fast and big items can take a couple of days!


Damn dude! So much envy, give us the specs! What type of plastic does it use? You need special software? Is it quick, and what about noise and heat? Where did you buy it? Did you have to build it yourself?

PS: Only an i3?! Why not i5 or i7 or Ryzen?? ;P

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90% Done 8D

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75% Done XD

He has fingers!

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55% Done :D

Sorry it's blurry but the whole thing is moving around!

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25% Done :D

If you're wondering, it's going to be a little hand doing an 'OK' pose. It's the default test model with the printer.

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13% Done :D